NOVEMBER 2015

The loop is complete – back in New Zealand

You might have been wondering what was going on with us, no news for the past six months – almost gave this blog up – that’s how lazy we were. After the fall (your spring) uneventful crossing from New Zealand to Fiji we cleared the customs in Savusavu on Vanua Levu island. From there we were planning on visiting the Lau islands. These are the most isolated islands of Fiji where people live a simple traditional life still following the old customs of welcoming the visitors with Kava ceremony after the visitor presents the gift, such as yagona, which is a root from which Kava drink is made and can easily be bought from the markets in the city. One has to ask the permission to visit the village, take photos, swim etc. Everybody who sails there also buys extra sugar, tea, flour to exchange for fruits or vegetables, or other useful items, especially items for school like books, paper, pens. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t favorable to sail in that direction, but we did have an experience of this traditional welcoming on Kadavu Island that lies just below Viti Levu which is the main island of Fiji. No hats, no sunglasses, the shoulders and knees have to be covered. The people of Fiji have a reputation of being the friendliest people of this planet and we have to agree. We spent about ten days here and got also invited to the Sunday feast, which was one of the best meals we had in Fiji! This island is quite rich as they are the ones who grow yagona and sell it on the main island and so all the tea, sugar etc. we still have on Vanille we are hoping to add to some Christmas food basket collection (here in NZ). We also managed some snorkelling on the magnificent and famous Astrolabe reef which is part of Kadavu island. By this time JP’s two sisters were getting ready for a visit and so we sailed to the main island to pick them up from the airport. With them we visited Yasawa group of islands, where one can hop from island to island in few hours or a day, each one with crystal clear water, colourful corals, lots of fish, long sand beaches...we had a great time, swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, eating...laughing was on the daily menu! The rest of the season we spent with friends, just bumming around, being lazy, enjoying each day as it came. After many years of intense travelling it was nice to do just nothing. On the 26th of October we departed Fiji and after eight days and three hours we tied to custom dock in Opua, once again in New Zealand. For this crossing we had a wind most of the time and so JP was very happy! (I was less happy trying to balance the pots and pans in the galley!) Everything is in flower here, the spring is almost over and the summer cruising season is just around the corner. We will do more sailing around the islands here, as we don’t have that many things to fix. I am once again flying to California to see my sister, JP will stay and will take care of the few things that need looking after. We reserved a place in Tauranga, hopefully a more exiting city than Whangarei, where we were last year. We will try to be a bit more active with this blog in the future as well. We hope all of you are doing well and till next time – CHEERS to you from New Zealand!

APRIL 2015

Fall already?

It's starting to get quite chilly again – long pants, sweaters and jackets are coming out of the closet – it's time to move on before some serious cold hits us here, now that the cyclone season in the Pacific is nearing its end. Since coming back from visiting our family and friends we were touring the South Island in a small camper van. Our trip started with wine tasting in Marlborough region, where most of New Zealand wine is produced. If you like nature this is a paradise for you, if you like to ride a motorcycle this is a dream come true. Roads are winding like a never ending snakes! Scenery beyond belief. Curve after curve, km after km, rarely a straight line. From the wild West coast bordering the Tasman Sea to snow-capped peaks, giant ferns, flying albatrosses, billions of sheep, walking tracks indicated every few kilometers, there is no way to get bored. We could have spent the entire summer roaming this part of NZ but we had only three weeks to spare and yet managed to log over 4,000 km while circling the entire South Island Back in Whangarei we took Vanille to the boatyard to finalize the last preparation for the coming season – antifooling paint, hull wax, etc. – now we are back floating and filling her up with supplies needed for the next six months in Fiji. The last few days we spent exploring the three supermarkets here and other stores for goodies and bargains on wines, beer, boat parts spares, etc., and then trying to find a place to store all this inside Vanille. Who said we were retired! This is work! In a couple of days we will leave this place, will go and play with the wind and sea, test all the new equipment installed and then will seek a good spot and will start monitoring the weather for crossing to Fiji. With a bit of luck and mother nature cooperation we should be underway before mid May.

DECEMBER 2014

Back to civilization as we know it

Vanille is tied up in a Whangarei harbour marina, some 20 miles up on Hātea River, New Zealand. This was our final crossing for 2014 and now Vanille and the crew are ready to take a land-dock break until April 2015 since cyclone season has already started in SW Pacific and will last until then. We chose Whangarei in New Zealand's North Island for its facilities and protection. This is a small town with medical clinics, dentists, big modern library, boutiques, three big supermarkets and any service a yachtsman could imagine will be available to him here. There are also trails within easy reach and we are amazed by hundreds of species of ferns and all kinds of for us unusual flowers. Here we are back to civilization as we know it with the same standards we are used to from North America or Europe. Yes we will be going to cinema as well and JP will be able to enjoy popcorn!! ...After more than 15 thousand miles we traveled in the last two years Vanille needs a bit of pampering as well – new sails are on the program, revision of the shaft alternator and motor starter is needed, outboard motor needs a good tune-up, rigging has to be checked,... etc,... etc. Every yacht that comes here to hide during cyclone season takes advantage of excellent service and a reasonable costs for numerous boat repairs after the long Pacific crossing. Australia has great service as well, but more costly than here in New Zealand. The next tune-up station to fix anything will be in South Africa, and that is not exactly next door! ...We also decided to rent a small camper van and will tour the South Island in February. This will be a nice change for us to travel by roads, although we will have to get used to driving on the left side – for now, one time out of two JP puts the windshield wiper on instead of the flasher – but could be way more dramatic-traumatic. ...Presently with the holiday season around the corner comes the time to visit our families. I'll be spending this time with my sister in mostly pleasant California weather, but poor JP will be facing ice and snow in Montreal. We were complaining of cold when we had a sharp drop from tropical heat to a NZ's spring, night temperatures were and sometimes still are around 10°C, day time is better, up to 18°C and now climbing up every day. After a month here we still have to heat in the mornings, although during the day with the sun up we are ready to complain about the heat!! ...hmm, is that just myself complaining? Knowing that we will be back here later in the full summer gives us courage to brace anything. ...We wish you all the joys of the season, a fabulous New Year and most importantly good health and best of everything!!

SEPTEMBER 2014

We lost a day... (Vava'u, Tonga)

Since our last blog entry from Tahiti, we continued our downwind sail with stops in Moorea, Huahine, Ra'iatea and Taha'a island, and finely the well known Bora Bora. These are called the Society Islands of French Polynesia and are well known for their magnificent lagoons, toothy sharks and some very luxurious and pampering hotels. It's a busy place, especially Bora Bora, with lots of tourists, car traffic, charter cruises and other tourist activities (Huahine and Maupiti are the only ones which escaped overdevelopment and are very keen to keep it that way!). The isolation of these islands in the middle of the Pacific is reflected by the price of goods, everything costs three to four times more than in North America with one exception only, and that is the excellent cheese from France, cheap by our Quebec standard. All of these islands have a main road that follows the coast while the interior of the islands remains mainly wild with a very high steep terrain. Apart from local fruit everything is imported and 2/3 of GDP is from France's contribution! – JP teases our French friends to keep on working and paying steep tax to keep the high standard here – and surprisingly, although tourism is their main income here, in general we haven't been overly impressed by their attitude. Next, after eight days and 1,000 nautical miles West of French Polynesia, the world's smallest independent nation, Niue Island is a real gem! Everything is done to welcome you, and to make your stay pleasant. The island doesn't have any lagoon and as the anchorage can be very exposed at times, the locals installed several moorings and let us used their crane to hoist our dingy out of the water and away from the costal surge when going on land. The rocky coast, the limestone chasms and caves and many well marked hikes are worth a visit. Sadly, because of lack of work opportunities more than half of the populations had left and we were astonished to see so many abandoned houses. And now, in the Kingdom of Tonga, Vava'u islands group, some 250 nautical miles W of Niue we are one day ahead of you! Yes, we lost a day! Tonga sets its time and date with their biggest trading partners, Fiji and New Zealand. This is the only Pacific nation never brought under foreign rule! Here life goes on in a more traditional (Christian) way, Tongans are conservative in their dress, women even swim dressed and men are never seen without a shirt. Most of the kingdom still functions under a subsistence system in which families are allocated two plots of land, one plot for living and the other for growing food. There is no begging, no homelessness, and Sundays are real rest days with powerful harmonies coming out of many local churches. The Vava'u archipelago of 60 islands has a lot of nice and protected anchorage, so at the moment we are cruising and snorkeling these islands and slowly gathering info and preparing for our next passage of 1,300 nautical miles to New Zealand. Life is good!

JULY 2014

“Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air...”  Emerson

After taking an advantage of the Salinas's yard services to finish few projects we had in mind for a while and after fixing the defective engine mounts we departed for the Marquesas Islands, some 3,600 nautical miles away. The weather along the way was great, sometimes even on the light side and we ended up wishing just for a bit more wind. It took us 25 days to cover this distance with about 12 hours of motor help when the wind got very light. As almost always long passages come with some type of unexpected, usually unpleasant surprise, and this one unfortunately wasn't an exception. The rack and pinion system of our rudder wheel broke and we ended up once again hand steering, this time only for the last 30 hours with just few gears left on the system, afraid we won't make it, but at the end we did arrive safely in Nuku-Hiva and anchored in Taiohae Bay. Nuku-Hiva is the largest of the Marquesas Islands and Taiohae is the administrative capital, hence why this bay became our choice for receiving the parts. The village is located in the centre of a crater, half sunk in the ocean, with black sand beach, open to the South. The trade wind at this time of the year is from South-East and we ended up rolling almost as if we were sailing down wind! Not the most comfortable anchorage! There has been about another 30 vessels of different nationalities rolling around with us, and I bet at least half of them were waiting for some parts for repairs as well! We were lucky as this is French Polynesia, our parts were coming from France and surprisingly post office system was efficient and we received what we needed in only eight days! Meanwhile, while waiting, we investigated this sparsely populated volcanic island, with razor-edged basaltic cliffs pounded by crushing waves, deep bays with cobalt-blue water, dramatic tall waterfalls and many mysterious looking valleys with lush vegetation that feel like the beginning of the world must have looked like or like a countryside from the pages of some fairy tale. The Marquesans are very welcoming and friendly, women with flowers tucked behind ears, easy smile and both sexes adorned with very artistic, tasteful, geometric tattoos. While sailing around the island we were visited by very different looking dolphins, and as we found out later this kind of dolphin, called Electra, is only seen around this island. Since our arrival in Marquesas we have been sailing together with friends we have met for the first time in Morocco two years ago, then Caribbean and now here, also owners of Amel sailboat, but 54 ft instead of our 46. We will have to say good-bye to them soon – they, being French can stay in French Polynesia for 36 months, we as Canadians only receive three months and now we have only another two months left here and we have to move on, while they can linger. Presently, since a week we have been exploring Fakarava together, the second largest atoll of Tuamotu islands. We snorkel every day, dove both passes here with crystal-clear water, with very healthy corals of every color and shape imaginable and fish so plentiful and colorful, one doesn't know where to look first. Black-tip sharks (quite harmless) are one of the main attractions here and we meet them everywhere we snorkel in this lagoon. This is an unbelievable underwater playground with so many species of fish we have never seen anywhere else and we wish we could spend some more time here. However, soon we will have to lift the anchor and be on our way. Next we will cross first to Papeete, Tahiti island, before continuing westwards as we must...

APRIL 2014

Galapagos via Ecuador!

OK, so quite unexpectedly we find ourselves in Puerto Lucia, Salinas, Ecuador, although we already covered about 1/3 of the way to Galápagos islands! But I am jumping too much ahead, since our last entry was in January! So first, beginning February we set the sails from Jamaica to Shelter Bay, Colón to prepare Vanille for the Panama Canal crossing. The wind was perfect, the sun was shinning, and just as we settled ourselves for a pleasant uneventful crossing, we suddenly heard a very strange noise and then silence! For few more minutes Vanille kept its course and then sadly the sails started to flap...yes, our 20 years old automatic pilot died a sudden death only one and a half days out of Jamaica and so for the next three days we became real sailors, each taking one and a half hour shifts, day and night, round the clock, steering Vanille with our own hands and muscles! This sailboat was constructed to run on a pilot and the steering station is not the most comfortable place to sit for a very long time! - but we survived good thing just before this happened I have read that the sleeping cycle for most people is 90 minutes and that did seem to work really well for us. Once in Panama we ordered not one, but right away two new motors to have a spare!! wouldn't want to steer by hand across the many miles separating the islands in Pacific! When we finally entered the Panama Canal we noticed some vibration from the motor but suspected that was due to Vanille's obesity with all the provisioning we did for the Pacific, for sure we were about one ton heavier than before! but a closer look on the way to Galápagos we realized that the silent blocks for the engine and the transmission are at the end of their life as well and that made us change direction to Ecuador and to take care of it here, since the next place where we could do something about this is Tahiti, and that is many, many miles away! Well, hopefully after this there is nothing too old to brake in the near future. We had stopped here four years ago and took an advantage of the yard here to spruce up interior of Nikan (after which we sold it in Chile), and we are quite amazed that everybody remembers us here, even our names – we have never had such a warm welcome anywhere where we stopped for the second time before! So I am not sorry to be here right now...hopefully the next leg of our journey will be smooth with no unexpected surprises, and since we are already almost at the end of April we will most likely skip Galápagos and go directly to Marquesas Islands, some 3400 nautical miles away. This will be our longest passage so far. We will try to be more regular in our postings, although we are going to be entering islands of rare Internet, slow Internet, no Internet I don't expect anything too efficient before New Zealand – and do I ever wish that I was wrong about that prediction!!!

JANUARY 2014

Island hopping

Since our last blog entry from Beaufort, due to an offshore weather pattern, we made several coastal jumps to West Palm Beach and from there we finally crossed the Gulf Stream directly to Nassau. The route to Puerto Rico has to be taken from the latitude of Beaufort or higher, otherwise it becomes a struggle against the wind, and so we just decided to see Puerto Rico another time... Although we visited the Bahamas five years ago, with over 700 islands and 2,400 cays there is always a new cove to drop the anchor in, a new coral head to snorkel over, another shade of turquoise water to admire or some new island where to enjoy an ice cold beer. Our final stop was Clarence Town, Long Island, the perfect place from where to await an opportunity to move on, and where you find probably the most easygoing people on Earth! On the way from Clarence Town to Île à Vache, Haiti, we made another decision to change our plans and  now here we are, in Port Antonio, Jamaica. I am very happy we finally didn't go to Île à Vache, as we have met here few boats who didn't have a good experience over there, although there are others who loved it. Amazingly Port Antonio is now very quiet - on our last visit reggae music blasted over the whole port 24/7! After the Bahamas this NE corner of the island is green and full of flowers, receiving rain daily, brought in by a steady flow of warm and humid trade wind stacking up against the Blue Mountain range. Shortly after our arrival, Compagneira, a motor sailor that we have met in Ecuador three years ago, entered the harbour and so we explore the island together, while catching up on the sea adventures and news of old friends. Although the weather for the next passage for now is not too bad, we are awaiting a bit calmer sea to sail to Colon, Panama. The heading of about 100 degrees from the wave direction could make this passage quite rolly in 12 to 14 feet wave! Meanwhile we relax and enjoy the company of friends and fellow cruisers... and the time flies by...fast... too fast...